How to Save a Dying Asiatic Lily

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The exotic blossoms of an Asiatic lily (*Lilium* spp.) Makes it a focal point in the garden in the spring till midsummer. While Asiatic lilies are rather easy to grow and hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8, they still have a couple issues. The actions taken to conserve an Asiatic lily fluctuate, depending on the growing conditions, time of year, and potential diseases.

Nature Calls

As autumn moves toward winter, the lily dies back. The leaves become yellowish, then shrivel and die. That is a **natural** portion of this Asiatic lily’s **life cycle**, whether it is grown outside or a precious indoor plant. When the leaves are completely lifeless, trim them back. Reduce watering, but don’t enable the soil to dry out entirely, as the bulbs do require moisture year around. When leaves appear in early spring, then start watering weekly. Add water till it drains in the bottom of the flowerpot, but do not allow the pot to stand in water. Fertilize with a 5-10-10 slow-release fertilizer, at a speed of 1 teaspoon per gallon of dirt , and water thoroughly.

Too Much of a Good Thing

Asiatic lilies can develop **arc decay** when flowerpots or flower beds are overwatered. If the lower leaves of the lily are turning yellow and falling, overwatering might be a portion of the problem. If the lilies are planted in a flowerpot without drainage holes, then transplant the lily instantly to your flowerpot with a screw hole. Remove any dead or rotting roots. Use fresh potting mix and discard the old dirt. Outdoor lilies should be planted in raised beds, which allow excess water to drain quickly.

Fuzzy Wuzzy, But not a Bear

If a **white, fuzzy area** develops, it gradually becomes gray, the lily might be suffering in the fungus *Botrytis*. The fungus enters the plant through damaged leaves, broken stems or after cutting flowers. To prevent the spread of *Botrytis*, remove all infected leaves and flowers immediately, put them in a plastic bag and in the trash. Sterilize all cutting tools involving every cut by combining the tools in a solution of equal parts water and rubbing alcohol. Avoid splattering water on the leaves; fungi favor moist conditions. Increase air flow around potted plants with fans. Serious and recurring infections could be treated using a **Bordeaux spray**. The University of California’s Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program advocates a mixture of 1 gallon of water, 3 1/3 tablespoons of copper sulfide and 10 tablespoons of dry hydrated lime. Put on gloves, a dust mask and safety goggles. Mix the copper sulfide with one half to two thirds of this water, and the lime with water. Then blend the two solutions together. Pour into a sprayer and then **spray on the plant** so all parts are covered with the solution. Utilize all of the solution that day and clean the sprayer thoroughly afterward.

Strange Growth Patterns

Lilies contaminated with **lily mosaic virus** may show few signs or develop variegated leaves and contorted blossoms. There is **no cure** for your mosaic viruses; the best method to conserve the plant is to reduce infection. Avoid handling the bulb, leaves or blossoms after smoking tobacco; tobacco is a host to a number of mosaic viruses. In addition, when cutting flowers for bouquets, sterilize the cutting edge tools involving every cut using a combination of equal parts rubbing alcohol and water to keep the spread of diseases. If insects like aphids infest the lily, use a blast of water to knock off the insects the plants.

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